Insects consumption can satisfy the protein needs of birds. Some foods that humans eat can also be fed to myna birds and enjoy eating it. Protein-rich food with fewer calories is advisable for providing them. Avoid the addition of salts, sugar, sauces, and oil while you feed these alternatives because it is hard for them to process. Dry food and frozen foods can also be served to them. Keep in mind any of these foods should not be a replacement for myna bird diet; instead, make it a part of their diet and be cautious about the quantity of food.
Some variety of Nuts have a high level of energy rich oils and rich sources of vitamins, minerals, and amino acids that keep your bird fit and healthy. Essential nutrients like manganese, copper, Vitamin E, Omega-3, and dietary fiber are stuffed in nuts.
Prefer unsalted nuts and not roasted nuts in their serve. Apart from health benefits, the pet owner must be aware of moderation and risks in providing nuts. Nuts are high in fat and can lead to nutritional deficiencies if many nuts are given in their diet.
Avocado contains the chemical persin in it, which is harmful to Myna. Iron-rich foods like red meat, spinach, and raisins should be avoided as birds are prone to iron storage disease, leading to their death. Salad ingredients can aid in digestive problems, so cut off from their food. Chocolates can be causing vomiting and diarrhea in birds. Peanuts — Aflatoxin in present in raw peanuts that is dangerous for myna bird liver.
Peanuts are known as a good source of protein and vitamin E, but poor storage of peanuts can have mold on them and causes fungus harmful for birds.
Dairy products — The lactose present in the dairy products is not toxic but not recommended for birds; it may even cause diarrhea. Mushrooms — Mushrooms contain Hydrazine, which can potentially cause gastrointestinal upset, and also some mushrooms are a type of fungus which may lead to liver failure. The birds will initially fly around and come back to the enclosure for a few weeks.
As they grow older and have explored their surroundings thoroughly, they will begin to stay away for longer durations of time, until they have established a territory of their own and no longer feel the need to return to the enclosure. They should be completely independent by 6 months of age. Although a soft release is ideal for hand-raised birds, there may be instances where you may have to opt for a hard release for the young mynas.
The minimum age at which the bird may be released is 6 months of age. Habitat selectivity may carry more importance when opting for a hard release. Hill mynas must only be released in forested landscapes while Common and Jungle mynas may be released in any suitable habitats. Egg binding is a medical condition when a female bird is unable to expel an egg.
Egg binding can pose a serious threat to female birds. Younger females are at a greater risk of dying from egg binding. In the event that a female myna is suddenly puffed-up and listless, it is quite likely due to egg-binding.
The female must immediately be placed in a small cage or shoe-box and provided with quiet and additional warmth. A heating lamp would be ideal. Castor oil or even cooking oil can be gently applied in to the birds vent or cloaca, with a Q-tip a cotton bud to lubricate the area and facilitate the passing of the difficult egg. One drop of castor oil given orally will also help the passage of the egg.
If these basic requirements are provided it is unlikely that the bird will suffer any serious health issues. Green droppings usually indicate an infection. Birds fed on soft food and greens may normally produce green and watery droppings, but if the droppings are runny and bubbly as well as carry an odor and persist over a period of time especially if the bird is fluffed up, lethargic and has a loss of appetite , it indicates a chill or an infection.
A pinch of Ridol, Kaltin, terramycin or any other antibiotic tablet can be dissolved in a half container of water. The infection should likely subside in a day or two and the medication may be discontinued a day after the bird has returned to normal health. Avoid exposing the birds to a cold breeze or draught, especially at night, as this causes chills and other health problems.
Avoid offering fruits at this time; cooked rice and boiled egg are a good option instead. Aspergillosis is the most frequently occurring fungal infection in birds. It is primarily a disease of the lower respiratory tract. There is a high prevalence of infection in mynas. The spores of the fungus are often present in the environment and healthy, unstressed birds are generally resistant to even high levels of spores.
Birds with a weakened immune system, or high stress levels due to environmental changes , are most susceptible to the disease. It may be contracted as the result of inhalation of fungal spores, fecal material or soil, or oral ingestion, especially if the birds are fed moldy food or housed in a contaminated environment.
It is therefore extremely important that feed is properly stored and is free of fungal growth. Proper ventilation in the enclosures is also essential.
Most importantly, the birds must be fed a healthy diet. Symptoms of a fungal infection include constant sneezing, coughing or labored breathing, loss of appetite and diarrhea. It can be life threatening if left undiagnosed or untreated. Treatment: The infected bird must be immediately isolated from other birds and provided with a quiet environment and additional warmth — a heating lamp would be ideal for this purpose.
You could also consider using Teeburb tablets which is an herbal veterinary preparation. However, if you find that the bird is not drinking the water, then the medication will have to be force fed. Bockheim, G. Nupur Ranjan Buragohan for his invaluable guidance and suggestions on the drugs for the treatments of the birds. Edited by Devna Arora Published in First and foremost: if the animal is injured, it would be very obvious but is the animal truly orphaned?
Please ensure if the animal is truly orphaned and not receiving parental care before you decide to pick it and take it home. The second step would be to reach the animal to a rehabilitator or rescue center. If you are unaware of any in your vicinity, you will be able to get guidance from your local veterinarian, zoo or forest department. This is not an uncommon situation to find yourself in.
Although there are innumerable rescue centers and rehabilitators around, there may be times when there are none in your vicinity or you are unable to reach anyone in time for help. It may be best to prepare yourself to care for the animal in such an instance. Much information on many topics and species is readily available online. Try to narrow down some pieces of information you can work with for a start. Also, get in touch with rescue centers or rehabilitators via phone or internet.
Exchange digital photographs where necessary — it barely takes a few minutes. Even if unable to help you directly in person, any person or center will surely be willing to guide you through the care of the animal and help you in choosing an appropriate protocol for its care and rehabilitation. It is a common myth that any baby or adult bird or mammal that has been touched by human hands will be killed by the rest of its group.
This belief has most strongly been associated with baby birds, making people extremely reluctant to pick up and leave babies back in their nest even when the parents are around. Over innumerable years, we have reunited many youngsters successfully, and inevitably, they have all been handled by human hands for several hours or days before being reunited. The key factor in the acceptance of the animal by the parent and other group members seems not to be the smell of human touch on the animal, but the actual process of reuniting.
A common mistake that most people make while attempting to reunite an animal is that they linger on too close and in turn, frighten the parents away. When trying to place an animal back in its nest, you must always keep a safe distance from the nest and the rest of the group so as not to scare them away.
It is easy to get impatient and want to return to the animal after short intervals, but you must refrain from doing so, rather, observe from a distance. Success is more likely than not. Some people have suggested the use of gloves to prevent direct contact with the animal. Yes, in all probability. But, no animal can be simply picked from captivity and released — that is when they will not survive. Animals need to go through a period of rehabilitation before they can be release.
The technique and timeframe of rehabilitation will depend upon the species and individual in concern. Guidance on rehabilitating your animal can be sought from an experienced rehabilitator. Wild animals belong in their natural habitats.
Their true glory and happiness can only ever be seen in nature. As much as the babies will be attached to you and need you when they are young, they will soon outgrow their dependence on you and their heart will yearn to be outside, in the wild — where they belong. Some pellets have excessively high values of iron that may contribute to iron storage disease or hemochromatosis in the mynah birds.
You can check with your vet for the newest iron content recommendations. The Mynah birds can eat insects such as mealworms, crickets, and wax-worms.
Occasionally, they can also be given day old-mice. If your bird is tested for the vitamin deficiencies, ask your veterinarian to suggest the best supplement for your bird. You should give fresh and clean water to your bird. If the quality of your tap water is not good, you may consider the use of bottled water.
Furthermore, all the dishes must be cleaned thoroughly on daily basis with soap and water. Swati takes pride of being a dog lover. Her current passions include blogging, writing and collecting dog pictures of various breeds.
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